A Diary from the Dales - Part 4

Wednesday saw us in Buxton, after another drive through some truly gorgeous countryside. It’s fair to say that on our brief visit the day before - when it was cold and occasionally wet - it looked grey and uninspiring. The sun was out though as we parked up by the Pavilion Gardens and it already looked better.

Now I’d done a little research on Buxton - the proper sort - with leaflets and Google rather than hops and barley - and found the existence of a little tour bus that gives you some of the town’s highlights. The next tour, departing imminently, was booked so I bought tickets to the following one in an hours time and we headed first for the Winter Gardens occupying part of the Pavilion.

Next up was the gardens themselves - great for an amble around or when the weather allows, a picnic. There’s play area’s for kids too.

Talking of kids, a miniature railway runs in an oval around a portion of the gardens - and always eager for a train ride, like big kids we got on.

It was nearly time for the tour, so we headed back to the main entrance to see the arrival of our tour bus - a ‘Victorian’ style mini tram bus! As we got on,the driver told us more about it. It began it’s life as a ‘tram’ in 2013 but spent the previous 40 years as a milk float - easy to spot if you look closer. She seats just eight but there was plenty of room.

First up was the Crescent - built in 1764 to rival Bath’s beautiful Royal Crescent it had sadly been allowed to fall into disrepair. Work was in place to restore it to it’s former glory when it will become a luxury hotel.

Due to said restoration works and resulting road closure our trip took us back around the Pavilion up the hill to the Devonshire Dome. Now one  of the homes of the University of Derby, the building served originally to stable horses belonging to the guests across the road at the Crescent. The central area was an open exercise yard, the dome only being added in 1882 when the building was converted for use as a hospital.  It’s an impressive piece of architecture.

Further along, was the Market Place - officially the highest in England and off the High Street was St Annes Church, Buxton’s eldest. A small but delightful little building which you wont get into unless you’re on the tour - or attending a service. Weddings are still held there, although the width of the aisle makes it impossible to walk down side by side - perhaps setting a precedent really early in on in the marriage!

The tour lasted an hour or so and for six quid we thought it excellent value for money helped in no small part by a friendly and knowledgeable guide.

Refreshments were taken in the pavilion cafe, then we had a mooch around the shops and an area overlooking the Crescent, known as ‘The Slopes’ - you’ll see why, procuring a couple of bits and bobs before heading back to the site.

Thursday saw us in Buxton yet again - but only to the train station - funnily enough to catch a train. Parking was a reasonable four quid but you get half that back if you have a train ticket - which of course we did. Our destination was Sheffield - a city we’d not been to for many years, but this trip, initially at least, was more about the journey as it takes you through the dales and some very photogenic countryside. There was no direct service so we headed north and west first to Stockport - passing through Chapel-en-le Frith - dubbed the Capital of the Peaks - and Whaley Bridge on the way, amongst others.

The second leg which runs non-stop to Sheffield and then on to the east coast sweeps through the northern half of the dales. How did we know this? Well, prior to our France trip last year were up here several times during the course of the week delivering and collecting the kids from our school who were on their Duke of Edinburgh expedition awards. While waiting for them one afternoon, we saw the train pass through at Edale and thought what a fabulous trip it might be. And it was. Very popular too so options to move about and get photos was limited.

Sheffield surprised us too. A much redeveloped centre greeted us than when we were last here - at least 20 years ago. We had to get a photo of the Crucible Theatre - famous at least to snooker fans. We’ve seen a couple of matches in the World Championships over the years and I was lucky enough to get to see the old Whirlwind himself - Jimmy White play - after a long wait for returned tickets.

The cathedral was a peaceful diversion from the bustling town centre where a new’ish addition blended in well with the original architecture.

Lunch - well a coffee and a snack - was taken before a meander around the shops. New sunnies were procured as was a bag for work - you needn't ask the colour.

On the way back we passed the rear of the town hall and the pretty peace gardens cutting through the Winter Gardens and back to the station for the journey home.

The village of Longnor - the nearest to the site once had three pubs - but now only one was still operational. the tenants - we were told had given in their notice and only opened when they felt like it. A previous visit - on our first day - had drawn a blank and we didn’t want to risk missing out again, but by chance the pub in the next village along  - the Pack Horse Inn - was just opening as we came through. We were rewarded with a terrific meal and a couple of excellent ales too and will try and return before we leave on Tuesday.

Friday, and the weather wasn’t great as we headed east to Bakewell - home of the Bakewell Pudding - joining tourists and locals alike for an amble around. It’s a place clearly geared for tourists these days but seemingly no less pleasant for it.

Afterwards we went for a drive - heading first east to Baslow, then north, again passing through Chapel-en-le-Frith and Whaley Bridge - through some stunning, though much flatter countryside.

Remember our trip to the Tan Hill Inn early on up in Yorkshire? Well Buxton can boast the second highest pub in England - the Cat  Fiddle - out on the road to Macclesfield and set in a landscape nearly as stark as Tan Hill.

We thought it a good place to grab some lunch, but a little research goes a long way - and had we bothered to delve a bit deeper through Google’s search results we would have discovered that the pub closed in December and was yet to re-open. Oh well, a shame  but the drive was nice!

A Diary from the Dales - Part 3

Saturday and our original - albeit rather loose - plan was to get the bus into Leeds. I’d never been apart from a fleeting stop at Elland Road many moons ago and wanted to have a look around. The fact that we could get a bus direct from Ripon helped too and with it passing through Harrogate on the way it might have made for a nice journey.

We learnt though, through the wonder of social media that fellow caravanner - ‘Caravan Larry’ - real name Phil was staying on the Moors and a meet up was arranged for after lunch. Originally we were going to hook up in York but Phil wanted to head over our way which was fine by us. We were going to spend the morning ‘mopping up’ the bits of Ripon that we still wanted to see.

First on the list was the Workhouse Museum - set, funnily enough in an old workhouse. We’d parked up, handed over the very reasonable two quid for a days parking and were just crossing the road to the museum  when who should appear but Caravan Larry himself with Mrs Larry and three little Larry’s.

Introductions made we headed into the museum and spent a pleasant hour and half or so wandering around. It served as a stark reminder of how tough life must have been if you were poor or fell on hard times in the early 1800’s.

It was universally agreed that lunch was next on the agenda and a newly discovered Wetherspoons duly obliged in Ripon’s Market Square. of course the chance to carry out a little more ‘research’ was too good to miss.

We had a great time with the Larry’s but it was soon time for us to part ways. Hopefully we will see them at a Twittercamp real soon. For those that like to cook in their caravan - or anywhere really - you should take a look at Phil’s website  - In My Caravan Kitchen - for recipes and some truly scrumptious looking meals - all prepared and cooked in the ‘van.

The Workhouse Museum is actually one of three - and a combined ticket gives you access all three - the second of which was the Courthouse Museum which we called into on the way back to the car. You get the chance to sit on the magistrates bench - and don a wig, act as a witness or even the defendant. Information boards give you the history of the courthouse - in action as a Magistrates court until 1998 - and some of the sentences handed down - many of which were deportation to Australia.

Sunday - and with forecasted to be appalling - and not even shopping to fall back on thanks to it being Easter - we decided to stay put. After a late start, Trev indulged in a bit of housework - or should that be ‘van work - while I sat in the dinette in front of the laptop and bashed one out. A blog that is. In fact several. As well as the main blog, there’s my Ale Archive where I keep a log of all the different beers I’ve tried. There was some catching up to do there as well thanks to the extensive er, research during Twittercamp. In the end quite a productive day. And the forecasters got it right too.

Monday and our last full day in Ripon in particular and North Yorkshire in general. We completed the Ripon  trilogy by visiting the Prison & Police  Museum. Much of the displays and artefacts are contained within the cells themselves. There’s opportunities for kids and kids at heart to dress up and as you will see there is even an chance for you to get your leg over - a motorbike that is. Mind you with my repaired lace up leathers back in service that was easier said than done! Worth and hour or so of your time and easily reached from the market square.

With grocery shopping duties completed after a sneaky lunchtime pint and toastie we retreated to the comfort of Patsy as the weather once again turned sour.

Tuesday and time to head south a bit for our next stop in the Peak District, near the village of Longnor a little south of Buxton. With an expected journey time of a couple of hours or so, and not being able to get on our pitch until 2pm there was no rush to leave, so for once we weren’t up at silly o’clock getting packed up.

We really enjoyed our stay in Ripon - a great little site in a great little city. Access from the main roads was easy which made getting out to explore easy too. The sites facilities were immaculate and the laundrette was very reasonably priced at two quid a load and just a pound for the dryer. Ditto the WiFi at just eight quid for the week with no data limit and up to two devices at once. TV reception was good and mobile reception was ok - no problems on Three but Vodafone was a bit weak at times.

I drove the first part of the journey south and it’s fair to say I got the easier, if less, well, interesting half of the journey. Trev took over a little before we turned off from the M1 and all was good until we got through Bakewell, when the roads shrank considerably. Think single lanes with occasional passing places and steep twisting bends and tight hair pins and you’ll get an idea. A delight if there’s none of the boys in blue about with their Kodak’s and you can be sure nothing’s coming the other way - not so much fun with a tonne and a half on the back and trying to dodge pot holes to boot. It seemed to go forever and Trev must have changed gears more times than Lewis Hamilton. At last though the the signs came in to view as we passed through the village and knew we weren't far away. The turning to the site itself appeared from nowhere and necessitated a sharp left hand turn up a rather steep slope. Sadly Patsy’s tyres weren't the only part of her anatomy that came into contact with the tarmac and her rear right hand corner came out a little worse for wear with the black plastic being split in a couple of places and the end of the awning rail twisted underneath. Annoying but one of those things. We’ve since removed the twisted section of rail and taped up the plastic and it already looks a lot better. The metal skirt that runs down the side was unscathed and there appears to be no damage elsewhere. I’ll look to get it sorted at some point and maybe even have a go myself but there’s no rush.

Having got sited and thirst quenched with a cuppa we made a brief excursion up the road to Buxton to get our bearings and scour the supermarket for the stuff we’d forgot yesterday!

So, Part 3 done and dusted. Stand by for a good look around Buxton, a journey through the dales and a visit to the city of steel…..