An Eastern Adventure Part 4

A change of site - we’ve moved on from Berwick-upon-Tweed - and a change in the weather too. Our journey 69 miles south yesterday to Old Hartley Caravan & Motorhome Club site near Whitley Bay was bathed in sunshine and the views were equally as stunning. However this morning it’s wet. Very. Which is why I’m sitting here at the laptop rather than out and about poncing about in my long leather coat…

Anyway, it was a great final few days in Berwick. Here’s what we got up to:

Friday started wet and there was still the occasional spot of rain as we arrived in Alnwick, twenty something miles down the A1. So we did the only sensible thing and found a café. We’d called in Alnwick all too briefly on our last trip up to Northumberland but were short of time and didn’t stop so were glad of the opportunity to have a longer look. And we both liked what we saw, solid attractive architecture and cobbled pavements and parking areas that was easy on the eye if not winklepicker clad feet. Like so many places it would look so much better without the motor vehicle perched on every corner but as we added to their number thanks to Northumberland's excellent disc parking system we can’t complain too much!

The town was attractive enough in it’s own right but the scenery surrounding do really make this a gem of a place to visit. The views looking back across the countryside towards the castle were divine.

On the edge is Hulne Park - we only had a quick look but again, the ride to and once there was very picturesque. This whole area is a photographers dream - I don’t class myself as one but I’d be  out with the camera every week If I lived here I’m sure.

If you were to find a downside to Alnwick it would be that it doesn't have a railway station -that Beeching geezer took care of that. However the building remains and is now home to Barter books - one of the largest second-hand book shops in Britain and it is an absolute delight for book lovers. Comfortable reading areas with open fires, murals, a popular and well priced café and children's room too. I don’t read nearly as much as I would like but could have spent hours here. Barter Books is also the home of the original ‘ Keep Calm & Carry On’ poster.

We wouldn’t necessarily known about Barter Books had it not been for a fellow caravanner and Twitterer Catherine who we were next door to on site. A cracking find Catherine - thank you.

More proof that social media can be genuinely social came later on on our way back from Alnwick when we took a detour to capture some dashcam footage for another caravan site arrival video.

Another fellow caravanner  and Twitter Michael made us aware of the Union Bridge in one of his videos - a link to which you can find HERE. The bridge spans the river Tweed on one side of which you are in England and on the other in Scotland. Notable just for that but it’s such a pretty spot too. The welcome you get when you cross to Scotland is sadly not reciprocated going back….

On Saturday we returned to what was one of the highlights of our last trip to the North East - The Holy Island of Lindisfarne. The weather was kind again and we had a great couple of hours just ambling around taking in the gorgeous views and soaking up the calming atmosphere that seems to envelope you as you cross the causeway. We missed out on the castle last time due to the tide coming in and us needing to get back. We had no better luck this time thanks to extensive renovation work that would see it closed until April. Nevertheless though it was another very enjoyable visit.

On the way back we paused at Cocklawburn beach - not a five minute drive from the site - to sample another part of the wonderful Northumbrian coastline.

Dinner was out - though not where we’d intended. The Brown Bear closed in 2016 when owners Enterprise Inns having starved the pub of investment sold the pub at auction. A local businessman bought the property to save it and a group go together to re-open it. Sadly arrived too late to eat but had a pint anyway and it looks a great boozer. We ended up instead at a hotel just down the road - mainly because by this time my stomach though my throat had been cut. The pizzas were tasty if a touch soggy but overall good value.

Our last full day saw us stay closer to home - or ‘van - heading across the river to Berwick-upon-Tweed for a wander around the ramparts. We’d done this before - back in 2015 when we met up with friends Tony & Jane who were staying in near Edinburgh. The weather was once again kind to us, the chilly breeze notwithstanding, and the camera shutter got a good workout too. I really have grown to like this town.

And that was our time up. The week flew by - a sure sign that you’ve had a good time they say and we certainly had. I have a feeling we’ll be back. Soon.

Until Part 5 then,

Cheers & Beers

Rich & Trev

An Eastern Adventure Part 3

After our incursion into Scotland on Tuesday, we stayed a little closer to home with a run inland to the unashamedly touristy villages of Etal & Ford. The villages lie in the heart of border country and nearby lies Flodden Battlefield, site of a particularly bloody conflict between the English and Scottish armies in 1513.

Etal castle - under the stewardship of English Heritage was not surprisingly closed given the time of year as was the narrow gauge steam railway that runs alongside the river back to it’s base at Heatherslaw where there is a working water mill. It looks a great little trip - but one for another visit.

Just up the road is Ford, almost deserted when we were there but achingly picture postcard beautiful although Ford Castle looking great from the road is sadly not open to visitors. It really is a delightful place just to meander - although I would recommend a warmer day than we had. The snow capped Cheviot Hills could be seen across the Northumberland landscape.

Thanks to the weather turning, final port of call of the day was a little south to Wooler. Referred to often as the Gateway to the Cheviots it sits on the edge of the Northumberland National Park and is clearly popular with walkers. We walked to the café for some sustenance and then to the bakers. Didn’t want to overdo it!

The evening saw us in a pub. Well two actually. Who’d have thought it. The first was one we’d passed on the way up the A1 on Tuesday called The Meadow House, it’s tag line being the first and last pub in England. Which it is of course if you’re on the A1. Only one real ale on offer, a not particularly clear Young's Bitter. It wasn’t very inspiring. The second was one much closer to the site - in fact not five minutes walk away. The Albion had the feel of real locals boozer and was very friendly. Greene King - aforementioned owners of the Belhaven brewery had made their presence felt and the only real ale was their IPA Golden. Not my favourite beer but at least it was clear and at under three quid a pint perfectly acceptable!

It was the turn of the train take us north on Thursday with a day trip to Edinburgh, a city we visited in our first year of caravanning back in 2012. We’d done many of the touristy things such as the castle and the Royal Yacht Britannia back then but were looking forward to another meander around the city. In addition we’d get to enjoy a similar coast hugging journey to Tuesday but with someone else at the wheel. Ok, loco’s don’t have steering wheels but you get the idea. Perhaps most importantly though we’d get to hook up with some more friends and the chance to become reacquainted with a young man…..

It was bitterly cold when we arrived, the icy wind making us aware of it’s presence down the Waverley Steps as we emerged from the station. Thought’s of much meandering we’re abandoned soon abandoned - I was for once more sensibly attired than the Portly Partner, so after restoring the caffeine levels we jumped on the first bus that came in to view. It took us south of the city, past Holyrood Park and the formidable looking hills the peak of which is Arthurs Seat. I will have a go at walking up to it. One day!

We swapped buses at the Royal Infirmary and came back into the city via a more circuitous route arriving at a pub early enough for a toastie before our first meet up of the day.

Andrew was on my bus when I started at the school and is now in his second year at the University of Edinburgh. He had a bit of a scare a year or so ago and had to undergo surgery to remove a cancerous growth from his leg. Scary at any age but at just 19 when you have your whole life in front of you quite terrifying. Fortunately prognosis was excellent and he’s made a full recovery. We had an enjoyable hour catching up about what’s happening back at the school and life in Edinburgh. I must admit it seemed a little odd having a beer with an ex-pupil but it was great to meet up again, although next time I’ll be choosing the pub. Not a real ale in sight but lots of fancy craft fizzy stuff. Dear oh dear!

We made further use of our PlusBus tickets, heading north out of the city towards the Ocean Terminal before arriving back for our second rendezvous, this time with caravanning pals Amanda & Allison who have recently started a new life north of the border. Trev’s jaw worked overtime - hard to believe I know - but the rest of us got a word or two in as well over a lovely meal in the Guildford Arms which had an impressive selection of real ales too.

Right, that’s it for now but lot’s more to come in Part 4 out soon.

Thanks and until next time

Cheers & Beers from Rich & Trev

An Eastern Adventure Part 2: Crossing the Border

As you will have now doubt deduced from the title we’ve been on the road again and across the border into Scotland - which in truth ain’t far - just a little way outside Berwick-upon-Tweed.

Twice in fact, the first of which was on Tuesday when our destination was to be North Berwick to catch up with some friends. It would have been easy to bomb straight up the A1, something old Rosie, unencumbered by a tonne and half of caravan on the back - would have relished. However with our rendezvous not planned until the afternoon we headed instead for the coast.

First stop was the fishing port of Eyemouth, just a couple of miles from the A1 and about eight miles North of Berwick. A partially rejuvenated fishing industry means the pretty harbour is still active and the fish market is in action early mornings.

In the town there is a statue of Willy Spears who led the revolt against the Church of Scotland who used to impose taxes or tithes on the sale of fish.

Next up was St Abbs, a delightfully archetypal harbour village, followed by the equally appealing Coldingham Sands. Both have been used as locations for the TV series Taggart and whilst St Abbs is popular with scuba divers thanks to the clear waters, Coldingham attracts the fellow neoprene clad who like to keeps their heads above water in the shape of surfers and bodyboarders. Colourful little beach huts edge the beach.

Further north, in what was becoming a tour of south-eastern Scotland’s harbours was Dunbar. I must confess that until recently I knew nothing about Dunbar and the only timed I’d heard of it was when the football results were read out! However on the outskirts is the Belhaven Brewery - now owned by Greedy - sorry Greene King, their beers occasionally find their way down south and the Smoke Stack Stout is awesome and one of my favourite black beers.

Dunbar’s favourite son is John Muir - and to be honest, I’d never heard of him but he was an explorer, naturalist and important conservationist. The house of his birth, located in the high street has been turned into a museum and there’s a commemorative statue too.

There is little left of Dunbar castle overlooking the harbour sadly but it’s a pleasant place to meander and enjoy the views out to sea.

In Victoria Road you’ll find a statue depicting fishwives called the Creel Loaders who used to take dried or salted fish to market to hawk sometimes a considerable distance away. The Creels were often so heavy that it took two to lift them on to the woman's’ back. Tough times.

We met up with our friends Heather & William just after lunch and they took us on a lovely drive, pausing on the way back at North Berwick - and bathed in the afternoon sun it looked very agreeable indeed. Once again the harbour was the focus of our attentions and there were great views to be had of Bass Rock.

After a lovely meal back at their place it was time to head back and Rosie got her run down the A1. It was a cracking day, helped in no small part by the weather and some great destinations and the chance to meet up with friends again. The drive itself was lovely too with the road often hugging the coast and the sea nearly always in view. There were some great looking campsites along the way too.

Coming soon - we head to inland Northumberland and let the train take the strain as we cross the border again, this time to Edinburgh.

So, until then, thanks again for reading. Not as much of my inane drivel to plough through in this one but hopefully the pictures do the talking.

Rich & Trev.

P.S. The Site Arrival video for this lovely site now on our YouTube channel HERE.