An Eastern Adventure Part 2: Crossing the Border

As you will have now doubt deduced from the title we’ve been on the road again and across the border into Scotland - which in truth ain’t far - just a little way outside Berwick-upon-Tweed.

Twice in fact, the first of which was on Tuesday when our destination was to be North Berwick to catch up with some friends. It would have been easy to bomb straight up the A1, something old Rosie, unencumbered by a tonne and half of caravan on the back - would have relished. However with our rendezvous not planned until the afternoon we headed instead for the coast.

First stop was the fishing port of Eyemouth, just a couple of miles from the A1 and about eight miles North of Berwick. A partially rejuvenated fishing industry means the pretty harbour is still active and the fish market is in action early mornings.

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In the town there is a statue of Willy Spears who led the revolt against the Church of Scotland who used to impose taxes or tithes on the sale of fish.

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Next up was St Abbs, a delightfully archetypal harbour village, followed by the equally appealing Coldingham Sands. Both have been used as locations for the TV series Taggart and whilst St Abbs is popular with scuba divers thanks to the clear waters, Coldingham attracts the fellow neoprene clad who like to keeps their heads above water in the shape of surfers and bodyboarders. Colourful little beach huts edge the beach.

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Further north, in what was becoming a tour of south-eastern Scotland’s harbours was Dunbar. I must confess that until recently I knew nothing about Dunbar and the only timed I’d heard of it was when the football results were read out! However on the outskirts is the Belhaven Brewery - now owned by Greedy - sorry Greene King, their beers occasionally find their way down south and the Smoke Stack Stout is awesome and one of my favourite black beers.

Dunbar’s favourite son is John Muir - and to be honest, I’d never heard of him but he was an explorer, naturalist and important conservationist. The house of his birth, located in the high street has been turned into a museum and there’s a commemorative statue too.

There is little left of Dunbar castle overlooking the harbour sadly but it’s a pleasant place to meander and enjoy the views out to sea.

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In Victoria Road you’ll find a statue depicting fishwives called the Creel Loaders who used to take dried or salted fish to market to hawk sometimes a considerable distance away. The Creels were often so heavy that it took two to lift them on to the woman's’ back. Tough times.

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We met up with our friends Heather & William just after lunch and they took us on a lovely drive, pausing on the way back at North Berwick - and bathed in the afternoon sun it looked very agreeable indeed. Once again the harbour was the focus of our attentions and there were great views to be had of Bass Rock.

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After a lovely meal back at their place it was time to head back and Rosie got her run down the A1. It was a cracking day, helped in no small part by the weather and some great destinations and the chance to meet up with friends again. The drive itself was lovely too with the road often hugging the coast and the sea nearly always in view. There were some great looking campsites along the way too.

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Coming soon - we head to inland Northumberland and let the train take the strain as we cross the border again, this time to Edinburgh.

So, until then, thanks again for reading. Not as much of my inane drivel to plough through in this one but hopefully the pictures do the talking.

Rich & Trev.

P.S. The Site Arrival video for this lovely site now on our YouTube channel HERE.

2 comments:

  1. We love north Berwick too
    A must visit is Dirleton and Tantallon Castles Just along the coast
    As for John Muir he has a walk named after him now which goes from Helensburgh (where you have been before to Dunbar 134 miles !!

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  2. Love the photos, beautiful area. It's definitely on our to do list.

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